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Our headquarters is located in Winter Park, FL. Our manufacturing plants and fulfillment centers are located around the globe.

Yes, we offer discounts for both active duty or retired military personnel, and discounts for career training educators. Contact us to submit a request.

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Currently, we have seven different product lines, and we are always working on expanding and improving our current fleet of products.

1. GRR-RIPPER: Our flagship products are the GRR-RIPPER Basic (GR-100) and Advanced (GR-200) models. Now available in a variety of bundles with a full line of accessories. Learn More
2. GRR-RIP BLOCK: Our Smart Hook Pushblock is armed with our signature high-friction, non-slip Green GRR-Rip material, and the auto-retracting Smart Hook technology. Learn More
3. MICRODIAL Tapering Jig: Our revolutionary tapering jig with indexed, preset angles for precise, repeatable tapers. Make tapered legs for that sofa table you’ve always wanted. Use with your existing GRR-RIPPER Advanced model and make smart tapers. Learn More
4. ZEROPLAY Miter Bars and Stops: Top-down installation, universal miter bar size with One-Touch Calibration. The ZEROPLAY Miter Bar was designed for shop-made jigs, sleds and fixtures. The only limit of this miter bar is your own imagination. Learn More
5. MJ SPLITTERS: The #1 aftermarket splitter system.  Easily installs on a table saw’s zero-clearance insert in place of a riving knife.  Keeps the kerf open to prevent kickback and give you superior cut quality.  Learn More
6. MATCHFIT: Our line of clamps and hardware, universally compatible with a standard ½” 14-degree dovetail profile.  It offers all the functionality of t-track and t-track accessories as a fraction of the cost.  Simply route your own tracks to make every inch of your shop more functional. Learn More
7. BLADEMATCH Arbor Shims: A set of 6 shims that install between your table saw’s arbor and blade to maintain a constant cut line regardless of blade thickness. Adjusts .003-.045” in .001” increments, keeping your riving knife aligned and your fence scale accurate. Learn More

Our products are available with free shipping from our online store, in many stores nationwide, and through authorized retailers online.

We’re always looking for talented people to join our team! See our available openings.

We apologize if you're unhappy with your purchase. Please contact us to see if there's anything we can do to resolve your issue. If you'd still like to make a return, visit the Shipping & Returns page for more info.

The scale on the SafeRip Kit is designed to ONLY be used with the 1/4” or 1/2" leg of the GRR-RIPPER against the rip fence of your table saw. It SHOULD NOT be used when the 1/8” leg, Adjustable Spacer, Balance Support or any shop-built feature is against the rip fence.

The SafeRip kit is fully compatible with the Stabilizing Plate, Gravity Heel, and Handle Bridge Kit.

Once your rip fence is set to the desired cut, simply adjust the Center Leg of your GRR-RIPPER so that the measurement you are cutting is NOT underneath the orange cursor on the GRR-RIPPER that is facing you.

For example, if your rip fence is set to 1-1/8” (29mm), the 1-1/8” (29mm) mark on the back of the GRR-RIPPER should be to the right of the orange cursor.

The cursor automatically accounts for the blade width and works on both side of the Center Leg, so when making a 2-1/2” (64mm) rip cut, the 2-1/2” (64mm) mark should be to the left of the orange cursor and the blade will pass safely to the left of the Center Leg.

The GRR-100 plus comes with our SafeRip system that helps prevent accidentally cutting into your GRR-RIPPER’s Center Leg. Your GR-100+ includes two measuring stickers that you apply to the assembled GRR-RIPPER, and two transparent orange cursors that move with the Center Leg as you adjust it.

You can use these Dovetail Grooves to create and attach you own shop-made accessories with the MatchFit Dovetail Hardware. Building a sacrificial heel and attaching it to the back of the Grr-ripper2 Go is a great option.

No. The Grr-ripper system accessories do not work with the Grr-ripper 2GO. However, you can use the MatchFit Dovetail Hardware to slide into the dovetail grooves and make a sacrificial heel.

Yes. OSHA regulations state that “...​in a workplace, regulations require that unsafe saws be removed from service immediately, push sticks or push blocks be provided at the work place for guiding or pushing material past the blade, and emphasis be placed on the cleanliness around woodworking machinery and, in particular, the effective functioning of guards and prevention of fire hazards. 29 CFR1910.213(s)

Please take a look at our Find a Retailer page and scroll to the bottom and click “International Retailers” to see a list of our Australian dealers near you. Many outside retailers also offer shipping to Australia.

Here’s a short video showing many of the great uses for the GRAK-404 Upgrade Kit AKA the Stabilizing Plate and Adjustable Spacer.

The GRR-RIPPER passes over the blade so there can’t be anything in the way. Don’t worry, the GRR-RIPPER is your moving blade guard.

It will work on any standard table saw with a fence and a blade.

3/4" or thicker: Void-free quality plywood (11-ply or more, Baltic birch is best), standard MDF or seasoned hardwood.

The MatchFit Dovetail Ratchet Clamp AP not only works with MatchFit Dovetail Tracks but also any standard 12mm x 8mm T-slot/T-track. Does not work with DeWalt track saw guide rails.

Our DVC700 Ratchet Clamp is the only one that is designed to fit into guide rails for saws.

It fits all the major brands that other aftermarket track clamps fit, but unlike other clamps, ours has the AP Spring that keeps the clamp arm where you set it during use.

Not compatible with Festool tracks or DeWalt track saw guide rails.

Good quality plywood or MDF work just fine for the MatchFit Dovetail System. Because the clamp pressure is normally directly over the clamp head in the groove, the groove is supported and the board does not tear out. There is a video showing the process here: https://youtu.be/oHtOey0-97U

When you tighten the Dovetail Hardware into a plywood or MDF groove, the 14 degree dovetail profile wedges the plastic head of the hardware in place in the groove.

This "locks" the hardware in place so it cannot move side to side within the dovetail groove. So you can wedge a Track Screw in place, loosen the knob, and turn a cam clamp to secure stock in ways that T-Track hardware cannot.

When you are done, just press the Track Screw or Track Nut back down into the groove to 'snap' it loose and slide it to your next task.

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STEP 1

Cut the label around the entire case (360º).

STEP 2

Hold the bottom and twist the top counter-clockwise.

STEP 3

Lift the top off and pull the router bit up and out.

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The dado Stop can cut dados from 1/8" up to 15/16" wide with a full kerf blade, and up to 1-5/8" using a stacked dado blade set.

It depends on the saw.  The Dado Stop is designed to make crosscut dados using a miter gauge.  You must be able to register off of Leg 3 with your miter gauge in the miter slot, and without your workpiece in front of the blade without touching it.

The clamps will not, the hardware will, but that’s kind of missing the point.  The MATCHFIT system was designed to be compatible with a standard router bit profile, so that users wouldn’t actually need metal tracks.  However, some users have been known to file or grind about .005” off of the wide part of the clamp’s elbow and use them in their Festool track.  Our advice is to use Festool clamps with Festool tracks, and use Dovetail Clamps for everything else.

When tightening anything inside of a t-slot, the pressure is applied perpendicular to the material surface, which may weaken the integrity of the track.  If a t-slot is cut into plywood, all of the force is concentrated on the small flange at the bottom, causing the plywood to delaminate. With a dovetail profile, the clamping force is distributed evenly along the entire wall of the track for an overall strong hold.

Only if you value your time.  Standard dovetail router bits cut to a sharp point at the top of the groove, which requires a decent amount of sanding after the track is routed.  Our router bit incorporates a 1/16” roundover to automatically smooth out the top of the track in a single pass.  Less time sanding means more time building.

Not really.  Dog holes only allow clamps to go through the material with the head sticking out of the bottom.  Dog holes confine clamps to fixed locations, which aren’t always where you need them.  Dovetail Clamps can be positioned anywhere in a dovetail track, inside the material and out of the way.

They’re track clamps. The head of the MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamps are forged into a dovetail shape, compatible with any standard ½”–14º dovetail router bit. It moves through the track created by a router bit instead of an expensive metal t-track.

ZEROPLAY Miter Bars will fit ANY standard (3/4” x 3/8”) T-Track miter slot that measures between 0.73" and 0.79" wide and at least 5/16" deep.

Compatible miter tracks include but not exclusive to ShopSmith, SawStop, Bosch 4100, Delta Unisaw, Powermatic, Rigid, Dewalt, and General 350 Tracks.

*Not compatible with table saws with 'Tabs' cast into the top of the miter slot or 5/8" miter slots i.e. Ryobi or Craftsman.

No. The tabs will get in the way.  Refer to the compatibility diagram here:

If your miter bar fits well but becomes too tight when installed on a sled, you may have tightened the panhead screws too much. Overtightening those screws can cause the bars to compress and expand outward.  Try putting a single strip of paper on the inside of one of the miter slots when adjusting the miter bars’ width.  This should offset the compression that occurs during installation.

No.  The kit is designed to allow users to build their own sled, to their own specifications.  Don’t worry, you can do it!  We provide detailed, easy-to-follow instructions for building the sled of your dreams.  Believe in yourself.

No.  The Miter Stop is included with the double miter bar pack, and is also available individually.

It depends. The miter slots vary in width from model to model. Measure your miter slot to ensure that it is at least .730" wide"

You don’t need to replace the whole GRR-RIP BLOCK!  Just pop out the damaged ones and pop in the new ones. Contact us for replacements.

The GRR-RIPPER is designed for adjustability, whereas the GRR-RIP BLOCK was designed for simplicity, and pure traction.  They feature the same GREEN GRR-RIP material, but the GRR-RIP BLOCK has a solid,  much broader gripping surface and auto-retracting Smart Hooks.  It’s ideal for use on the jointer, the router table, and on the bandsaw.  It can be used on the table saw, but only for non-thru cuts or cuts that don’t require passing directly over the blade.

The MICRODIAL is most commonly used on the table saw, but it can also be used on the router table and the bandsaw, if you have a fence on the right side of the blade.  For more information about how to use the MICRODIAL, please refer to the instruction manual.

The MICRODIAL was designed to work with the GRR-RIPPER, but it depends on the cut.  To cut tapers on wide panels, you can help feed the material with your other hand, provided it’s no less than 12” from the blade.  To cut tapers on small or narrow stock, we strongly recommend using GRR-RIPPER(s) to safely feed material through the cut.  This is not only safer, but will give you better results.

It depends on the saw.  The MICRODIAL cuts tapers by running along the fence. It must have enough of its edge in contact with the fence to remain straight from the start of the cut, with the Heel Hook at the tail end of your workpiece, and with your workpiece in front of the blade without touching it.

Yes! However, the installation process is slightly different to account for the density of the material. Watch this video to see how SPLITTERs are installed on a phenolic zero-clearance insert.

With the blade at maximum height, you need a minimum of 2” behind the blade to install the SPLITTERs.

MJ SPLITTER replacement inserts are only available from MICROJIG – they cannot be found in retailers. Shop Now

No, it won’t. The SteelPro needs its own separate drilling guide and its spacing is different than the original MJ SPLITTER.

Yes, please download and read the instructions.

Sharpening a saw blade will certainly affect the kerf it cuts.  Adding Arbor Shims to offset the difference will ensure accuracy of the fence scale and mitigate the dangers associated with a misaligned riving knife.

When talking about thousandths of inches, the problem can appear negligible.  However, in terms of joinery, .010” may as well be the Grand Canyon.

Changing from a full kerf blade to a thin kerf blade effectively changes the distance between the blade and the fence, resulting in a misaligned riving knife, and an inaccurate fence scale.  BLADEMATCH Arbor Shims allow you to maintain a constant cut line, regardless of the blade’s kerf width.  This keeps your fence scale reliable, and your riving knife in proper alignment.

If you use one saw blade for every cut, no.  If you use a variety of blades for different types of cuts, absolutely.